This is one of those sites that pop into your mind whenever you think of antiquity, especially in biblical terms. The site evokes such a sense of wild and amazing historic past that you inevitably remember whenever a thought of ancient architectural achievements pops in. Given all these preconceptions, you are inevitably bound to be surprised when you see the real thing.
Numerous people refer to their experience in Coliseum as a bit of a disappointment – “it is smaller” they say. So, I was ready to see something rather small and, to an extent, surely blown out of proportion owning to the time chasm that separates us from antiquity. (Just remembering my slight disappointment caused by “Golden Dachle” in Innsbruck).
Anyway, my first sighting of the place (from the bus tour going by) was the one of being impressed. The height of the Coliseum walls (on the high side) and its overall size turned out to be rather overwhelming. So, I could not contain my excitement of anticipation of seeing the place once again after the bus tour was over.
As we were approaching Coliseum walking, one could not help but notice a goodly number of gladiator and Roman soldier impersonators. I did not dare to inquire about the asking price considering their imposing and rather authentic Roman looks… I guessed that whatever the price they charged was always higher for the perennial suckers – Japanese (around $50 EUR) for a round of pictures as opposed to $10 EUR charged to bargain happy Canadians. Our memorable tour guide Roberto later clarified the numbers and treatment of Japanese.
The first good move was prompted by a street offer to see Coliseum with a tour of $15 EUR each as compared to the base admission price of $8 EUR. The extra EUR (less $5 EUR of hard fought discount between three of us) went for our superb guide Roberto with his excellent English and smattering of Russian (he visited Moscow four times and remained impressed). In addition, we got the first dibs at his local tour adventure – RomaRound with its guides, atmosphere and all. By the way, never use those 800 numbers posted in nearly every phone booth in Rome for phoning internationally. It is a first rate rip-off that has cost me over $60 for just ten minutes of international calls – always buy phone cards instead.
The first beginnings of the Coliseum tour were quite humble as we were the first clients for about 10 minutes while Roberto’s helpers – good looking blond Northern European maidens were soliciting the business. In fact for a time, I almost felt as a first rate sucker – a Canadian version. However, arrival of four new clients – a set of clean cut young Irish lads – has buoyed our spirits. Shortly after the Irish and some other additions, Roberto began. And as he began, incidentally just outside the ticket booth office, the new business came suddenly with force as a tornado in Missouri on a hot humid evening in late May. In fact, we witnessed Roberto’s key skills – great projection of voice while receiving great amounts of cash and giving out change with his hands as those were completely detached from the rest of his tour-giving body. Slight smirk of delight at the sight of the financial abundance coming his way was the only interference in otherwise impeccable delivery.
Consequently, Roberto’s financial prowess did not spoil the tour. In fact, the tour was an unmitigated success. His persistent calls for “Questions”, propensity for educational titbits – the origin of the word arena comes to mind - and his effulgent entrepreneurial nature – advertising his other tours throughout the tour – were the gems that made up the experience. First, Roberto proceeded with a constructive debunking of any preconceptions about Coliseum that we might have had. Starting with the name – “Flavian Amphitheatre” instead of Coliseum, which took root after the enormous golden stature of infamous Nero was removed for better uses – i.e. what was in the best interests of SPQR (Senatus Populus Que Romanus). Then Roberto proceeded taking a bite out of the solid and truthful image of Hollywood filmmakers – emperors never fought in the place themselves, thumb were not raised in the approval of the defeated and Romans were purely sabbatical people who did not allow themselves to work more than once a week. The conclusion – before coming to Rome, do not watch Gladiator as a tour guide movie.
Despite all sophistication and cleanliness – these people bathed twice a day – their life was pretty brutish by our current lifestyles that are either stuck in front of TV, at work or somewhere in between, commuting. In contrast to modern strive for ever more efficiency, Romans spent time eating, drinking and satisfying their sexual appetites to pretty much no visible detriment to themselves under tutelage of seemingly benevolent tyrants – George W will not pass the test.
Let’s put it this way, nobody starved in Rome, and especially nobody starved in Coliseum where immense quantities of garlic were consumed while simultaneously enjoying a piece of human tragedy, gore and thoughts of what was to follow later that day – visiting brothels and other alike places. Turns out, that apart of few Vestal virgins no women were allowed to be present other than on the forth and the last level of the stands. Now, this fourth level accommodated only 5,000 people vis-à-vis 45,000 for the remainder of the stadium – so the question was, as diligently pointed by Roberto on a number of times “what do you do?” – 45,000 men versus 5,000 women. The answer is as trivial as business-like – a number of brothels were built just across the street as evidenced by the unmistakable manly sign carved right out on the ancient wall with unmistakable directions attached. Now, you did not want to cross that street while the games were on – lest you were at risk to be bombarded with sacks of urine thrown over the Coliseum walls. This is due to women being deprived of proper toilet facilities reserved for men only – they called it a republic at one time – chauvinistic pigs!
Speaking of ancient buildings – not everything is as ancient as previously thought in Flavian Amphitheatre. The majority of the building originally erected by labours of Titus and Vespasian in just twelve years is still standing. However, a good chunk of it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1343 – the forces of nature almost anticipated the feeling of obsolescence reserved for the stone monster as Rome population of over 1 million at the time of Hadrian had been reduced to mere 15,000 to 20,000 at the onset of dark ages. But the popes, as habitual patrons of art and glory, came to the rescue – it was under one of those Innocents or Pious’s – no matter, the fallen walls were partially re-built by a concoction of cheaper materials that replaced much needed travertine marble. The marble that had been hauled away to satisfy the insatiable appetite of the likes of Michelangelo to etch their names in every stone they could lay their hands on.
All in all, Coliseum was an ominous place that announced death with a bored monotone of impartiality and high frequency too intolerable for the sensible generation that we are – Texas executions pale in comparison. A lone modern cross was installed to commemorate the victims of the grisly spectacle – more than 2 million of them. The place also witnessed deaths of countless animals and suffering of those who happened to survive. Of course, not all 2 million were unwilling victims – some became gladiators (gladius – sword in Latin) to earn money and fame. Some needed the money to escape slavery, some craved fame to have access to what else – women. Many of them, apparently, competed for the most famous and surviving gladiators no further than the fountain that is still there, next to the Arch of Constantine. The fountain provided plenty of sweat and chiselled bodies to be competed for.
That’s the Coliseum tour in the nutshell.
Numerous people refer to their experience in Coliseum as a bit of a disappointment – “it is smaller” they say. So, I was ready to see something rather small and, to an extent, surely blown out of proportion owning to the time chasm that separates us from antiquity. (Just remembering my slight disappointment caused by “Golden Dachle” in Innsbruck).
Anyway, my first sighting of the place (from the bus tour going by) was the one of being impressed. The height of the Coliseum walls (on the high side) and its overall size turned out to be rather overwhelming. So, I could not contain my excitement of anticipation of seeing the place once again after the bus tour was over.
As we were approaching Coliseum walking, one could not help but notice a goodly number of gladiator and Roman soldier impersonators. I did not dare to inquire about the asking price considering their imposing and rather authentic Roman looks… I guessed that whatever the price they charged was always higher for the perennial suckers – Japanese (around $50 EUR) for a round of pictures as opposed to $10 EUR charged to bargain happy Canadians. Our memorable tour guide Roberto later clarified the numbers and treatment of Japanese.
The first good move was prompted by a street offer to see Coliseum with a tour of $15 EUR each as compared to the base admission price of $8 EUR. The extra EUR (less $5 EUR of hard fought discount between three of us) went for our superb guide Roberto with his excellent English and smattering of Russian (he visited Moscow four times and remained impressed). In addition, we got the first dibs at his local tour adventure – RomaRound with its guides, atmosphere and all. By the way, never use those 800 numbers posted in nearly every phone booth in Rome for phoning internationally. It is a first rate rip-off that has cost me over $60 for just ten minutes of international calls – always buy phone cards instead.
The first beginnings of the Coliseum tour were quite humble as we were the first clients for about 10 minutes while Roberto’s helpers – good looking blond Northern European maidens were soliciting the business. In fact for a time, I almost felt as a first rate sucker – a Canadian version. However, arrival of four new clients – a set of clean cut young Irish lads – has buoyed our spirits. Shortly after the Irish and some other additions, Roberto began. And as he began, incidentally just outside the ticket booth office, the new business came suddenly with force as a tornado in Missouri on a hot humid evening in late May. In fact, we witnessed Roberto’s key skills – great projection of voice while receiving great amounts of cash and giving out change with his hands as those were completely detached from the rest of his tour-giving body. Slight smirk of delight at the sight of the financial abundance coming his way was the only interference in otherwise impeccable delivery.
Consequently, Roberto’s financial prowess did not spoil the tour. In fact, the tour was an unmitigated success. His persistent calls for “Questions”, propensity for educational titbits – the origin of the word arena comes to mind - and his effulgent entrepreneurial nature – advertising his other tours throughout the tour – were the gems that made up the experience. First, Roberto proceeded with a constructive debunking of any preconceptions about Coliseum that we might have had. Starting with the name – “Flavian Amphitheatre” instead of Coliseum, which took root after the enormous golden stature of infamous Nero was removed for better uses – i.e. what was in the best interests of SPQR (Senatus Populus Que Romanus). Then Roberto proceeded taking a bite out of the solid and truthful image of Hollywood filmmakers – emperors never fought in the place themselves, thumb were not raised in the approval of the defeated and Romans were purely sabbatical people who did not allow themselves to work more than once a week. The conclusion – before coming to Rome, do not watch Gladiator as a tour guide movie.
Despite all sophistication and cleanliness – these people bathed twice a day – their life was pretty brutish by our current lifestyles that are either stuck in front of TV, at work or somewhere in between, commuting. In contrast to modern strive for ever more efficiency, Romans spent time eating, drinking and satisfying their sexual appetites to pretty much no visible detriment to themselves under tutelage of seemingly benevolent tyrants – George W will not pass the test.
Let’s put it this way, nobody starved in Rome, and especially nobody starved in Coliseum where immense quantities of garlic were consumed while simultaneously enjoying a piece of human tragedy, gore and thoughts of what was to follow later that day – visiting brothels and other alike places. Turns out, that apart of few Vestal virgins no women were allowed to be present other than on the forth and the last level of the stands. Now, this fourth level accommodated only 5,000 people vis-à-vis 45,000 for the remainder of the stadium – so the question was, as diligently pointed by Roberto on a number of times “what do you do?” – 45,000 men versus 5,000 women. The answer is as trivial as business-like – a number of brothels were built just across the street as evidenced by the unmistakable manly sign carved right out on the ancient wall with unmistakable directions attached. Now, you did not want to cross that street while the games were on – lest you were at risk to be bombarded with sacks of urine thrown over the Coliseum walls. This is due to women being deprived of proper toilet facilities reserved for men only – they called it a republic at one time – chauvinistic pigs!
Speaking of ancient buildings – not everything is as ancient as previously thought in Flavian Amphitheatre. The majority of the building originally erected by labours of Titus and Vespasian in just twelve years is still standing. However, a good chunk of it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1343 – the forces of nature almost anticipated the feeling of obsolescence reserved for the stone monster as Rome population of over 1 million at the time of Hadrian had been reduced to mere 15,000 to 20,000 at the onset of dark ages. But the popes, as habitual patrons of art and glory, came to the rescue – it was under one of those Innocents or Pious’s – no matter, the fallen walls were partially re-built by a concoction of cheaper materials that replaced much needed travertine marble. The marble that had been hauled away to satisfy the insatiable appetite of the likes of Michelangelo to etch their names in every stone they could lay their hands on.
All in all, Coliseum was an ominous place that announced death with a bored monotone of impartiality and high frequency too intolerable for the sensible generation that we are – Texas executions pale in comparison. A lone modern cross was installed to commemorate the victims of the grisly spectacle – more than 2 million of them. The place also witnessed deaths of countless animals and suffering of those who happened to survive. Of course, not all 2 million were unwilling victims – some became gladiators (gladius – sword in Latin) to earn money and fame. Some needed the money to escape slavery, some craved fame to have access to what else – women. Many of them, apparently, competed for the most famous and surviving gladiators no further than the fountain that is still there, next to the Arch of Constantine. The fountain provided plenty of sweat and chiselled bodies to be competed for.
That’s the Coliseum tour in the nutshell.
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